Tuesday, November 29, 2005

Dropped Off


This morning we awoke before the sun, packed our bags with enough food to last us the day, and jumped into the peace corps cars. We were then blindfolded and driven around in circles for the sake of disorientation. The cars stopped in the middle of nowhere and let us out in pairs- our task was to find a specific village within the area to go interview people in, and then to find our way back to Falevao by the late afternoon. Andrew and I were dropped in the road and told to find a village called "Tiavea Tai"- tai means on the water so we started down the road towards the direction of the ocean, figuring we were being quite logical about the whole thing. Fortunately we decided to check with a passing Samoan about a quarter of a mile down, who told us that actually the road to Tiavea Tai shot off to the right from the main road further inland than we were dropped off. So good thing we asked :) We then hiked down that "road" for about 45 minutes to an absolutely beautiful little beach with a tiny village right on the water: Tiavea Tai. The little village on the water is made up of eleven families and a church. No cars. No phones. No televisions. No fale'oloa (small convenience store). Even the mayor of the town lives up the hill in the sister village, Tiavea Uta (uta=inland). Within five minutes of our being there half the families had come out to say hello, and one in particular insisted that we come in to their fale and have tea. They welcomed us with open arms into their home and served us food and told us the story of the creation of the village and how it got its name... tia means man and vea means woman and a man and woman came to bathe in their stream and fell in love with the place and decided to stay there and that's how the village started. We got the story in both English and Samoan and it was more extensive and interesting than my portrayal but there's the basic point for you. The family invited us to spend the day and actually tried to get us to stay there and spend the night in the village. We told them we were extremely appreciative of their hospitality, unfortunately we couldn't stay as we were expected back in Falevao, but that we promise to come again and visit when we are able to stay. It was such an incredible experience- people are so friendly and kind and just open up and offer you everything without even knowing you. They welcomed us into their homes and treated us with such honor, it was truly humbling. We hiked back up the mountain in the sun (let me just say, going down is a fair bit easier... we were both soaked by the time we got to the top) and then started walking along the road towards town. We were told the next bus wasn't until noon so we were kind of banking on a car coming by and helping us out. (Hitchhiking is totally par for the course here and people are super friendly and kind about it- they actually thank YOU for hitching a ride from them!) The first car that drove by stopped for us and happened to be going to Apia and we were welcomed into the car by a couple of pastor's wives who were coming into town to get petrol for the sightseeing boat they operate. So we rolled into town with more ease than could possibly be imagined and now here we are. We'll take a bus back to Falevao from the market this afternoon. I have to say I am amazed by how easy it was to find our way when we had no idea where we are, and how much of that was due to the overwhleming kindness and helpfulness of everyone we met on our journey. I am so greatful to be in such a welcoming country with such warm and open people! Lucky lucky lucky.